Fixed Anchors are Coming to the Main Cliff
Ragged Mountain’s Main Cliff has a longstanding history of traditional climbing. This amazing climbing venue nestled in the suburban setting around Hart Lake in Southington CT is one of the crown jewels of Connecticut climbing. The Ragged Mountain Foundation is proud to be the owner and steward of the property, protecting this natural and recreational resource for over three decades. One of the responsibilities and challenges has always been the maintenance of the cliff under the mandates set by the Conservation Restriction that accompanied the RMF taking ownership of the Main Cliff. This legal document outlines what can and cannot be done on the property as a way to preserve it.
The RMF has been working closely with the Berlin Land Trust, one of our partners in protecting the land, to consider allowances on the property. After discussing the conservative values of the property along with concerns of the health and safety of all users, the RMF has been approved to install select fixed anchors at the top of the Main Cliff. This is a major change for Connecticut climbing which is a necessary step to protect both the environment and people using the property.
Photo by Matt Shove
The RMF understands that this is a big change for Connecticut climbing and knows that this is an important step to better manage the Main Cliff. The popularity of climbing has increased from the fringe activity it once was and these anchors will help preserve the trees at the top of the cliff that are dying from overuse as anchors. Over the next two years, the Main Cliff will receive fixed anchor hardware to reduce environmental impact on the cliff-top environment and create an overall safer experience while using the property. The Main Cliff, however, will remain a traditional climbing venue and fixed anchors will not change the seriousness of the routes for climbers who choose to lead these classic climbs. The RMF will not be adding bolts to routes beyond what we have allowance for as determined by the Conservation Restriction. For the most updated information about specific routes that receive fixed anchors, please refer to the Ragged Routes Gunks Apps, which will be updated regularly after fixed anchors are added to routes.
As fixed anchors are installed, we encourage users to help us track information by using the Fixed Anchor Use form. Although not mandatory, the information collected will help the RMF navigate future conversations and provide data to our partners for any additional allowances on the property.